Shopping in Kathmandu- A Westerner's Perspective

In my 15 years of marriage to a NRN (non-resident Nepali), I've made at least 4 trips of over a month each to Nepal, spending most of my time in the capital city of Kathmandu (KTM). For those of you who are considering a trek or tour in Nepal, you will start and finish your trip in KTM. This provides ample opportunity for a rich cultural, dining and shopping experience. I'm going to focus here on the particular shopping opportunities in/around the KTM valley.

Nepal has many unique arts and handicrafts that make excellent presents (in fact, for the last few years, I have almost exclusively given Nepali-made gifts for birthdays and Christmas – gaining rave reviews of my American family and friends.) Please note that your travel agent and tour guide will provide recommendations, which will benefit both the traveler, the retailer and the travel agency and save you from over paying .

Where the tourists shop:
Note that unless noted "fixed price", bargaining "haggling" on price is expected, and YOU SHOULD NOT PAY FULL-PRICE! Ask for at least 1/2 off and be willing to walk away if you don't get it. Unless you are truly pressed for time, have tons of money, or find something truly unique (based on local knowledge), you will typically find the same thing for less outside these "tourist traps".

Thamel - This is the #1 shopping destination for tourists, with many shops and street vendors catering to the trekkers (be warned there are many fakes around; e.g. if you want real North Face you must go to the North Face store at the entrance of Thamel next to the Java Shop).

Where the locals / ex-Patriots shop:
Bhat-Bhetini Department Store – Two locations for this massive, fixed-price grocery store/department store combo provide a 1-stop trip for all your essentials, including groceries, chocolate, beauty products and wine, or head upstairs for a wide selection of well-priced home goods, toys, clothing, shoes, and many more items. This is one of our kids' favorite places to shop, and they never let us forget to buy an ice cream or balloons on the way out!

Assan(Neighborhood) – Here you will be transported to the mideival heart of the old city. If you want to truly experience how local residents shop, bring your travel guide, bargain to your hearts content, and visit before noon, or after dark when you will be transported past ancient temples into a different world.

PatanDurbar Squre– After you enjoy the not-to-be-missed Patan Museum, the various shops and outdoor tables filled with unique Nepali items offer a tempting mix for the tourist/shopper. Beware the prices though, you're bargaining skills will be needed in this famous square.

Bhaktapur (City)– About 45 minute drive from Kathmandu, this Anicent Kingdom city is not only a wonderful day trip and World Heritage site, the shopping is fantastic! Hand-painted original Tibetan Thangka paintings, Nepali paper products and metalwork are very popular in the shopping thoroughfare.

Where everyone shops:
Durbar Marg (formerly Kings Way) – Think "high-end" clothing and antiques. And don't forget to stop by Nepal Travels office at Yak and Yeti lane, to say hello! New Road (Neighborhood) –My Nepali family has shopped here for years, and they have their preferred destinations where the shopkeepers know them by name. If you don't have such connections, ask your tour guide to take you to any of the established stores. While you will pay a fair price, and some bargaining is expected, this area specializes in jewelry (especially gold), clothes, home goods and shoes. The area really lights up at night, especially during Tihar festival (November), reminding me of First Night (New Years Eve).

BoudhaTemple – It took me a few years to find this historic Buddhist temple surrounded by a circle of shops and restaurants, and it is now my favorite place to spend a few hours, leisurely walking clockwise with the pilgrims, and stepping out to view the handicrafts, clothing, hats, religious items, jewelry and other fabulous finds. Surrounding the temple there are some well-established Tibetan carpet retailers where you can order and ship standard or custom carpets direct to your home address.

City Center (Shopping Mall) – My 7-year old son loves the "kids casino" at the top level (a very loud arcade where you buy coins to play video and other games). I love the multi-level, Western-style shopping experience, complete with brand-name (for Nepal) stores and reasonable (fixed) prices.

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